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服装立体造型设计2(全英文)
第1次开课
开课时间: 2022年09月05日 ~ 2023年02月28日
学时安排: 3-5小时每周
当前开课已结束 已有 85 人参加
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spContent=Do you want to be a creative fashion designer?Do you want to design your own creative garment? Welcome to the draping class. Learn how to use a pair of scissors, a box of pins and a piece of fabric to create the garment style you want. Fashion draping, your design dream starts here. 你想成为一名服装设计师吗?你想为自己设计个性创意的服装吗?欢迎走进服装立体造型课堂,学习如何用一把剪刀、一盒大头针、一块面料在人台上设计出你想要的服装造型。 Whether you are a zero-based fashion enthusiasts, fashion major students or fashion designers, you can learn the draping knowledge and skills that you needed in this course. 无论你是零基础的时尚爱好者、服装专业学生还是服装设计师,都可以学到你需要的服装立体裁剪知识和技能。课程采用全英文授课,对于学习者,除了提升服装专业技能,还能学到地道的服装专业英语。
Do you want to be a creative fashion designer?Do you want to design your own creative garment? Welcome to the draping class. Learn how to use a pair of scissors, a box of pins and a piece of fabric to create the garment style you want. Fashion draping, your design dream starts here. 你想成为一名服装设计师吗?你想为自己设计个性创意的服装吗?欢迎走进服装立体造型课堂,学习如何用一把剪刀、一盒大头针、一块面料在人台上设计出你想要的服装造型。 Whether you are a zero-based fashion enthusiasts, fashion major students or fashion designers, you can learn the draping knowledge and skills that you needed in this course. 无论你是零基础的时尚爱好者、服装专业学生还是服装设计师,都可以学到你需要的服装立体裁剪知识和技能。课程采用全英文授课,对于学习者,除了提升服装专业技能,还能学到地道的服装专业英语。
—— 课程团队
课程概述

This course further develops creative draping techniques in apparel design. Builds upon the skills learned in Draping Ⅰ, Students learn advanced draping techniques. Introduction to cowl bodice, sarong skirt, bias cut dress and jacket styles that include mounted and semi-mounted sleeve, various collar and pocket styles are included.  Students also learn to connect the skills of draping and pattern making and use these skills creatively. Course utilizes strong sewing skills.

本课程是服装立体造型设计1的进阶课程,是学生掌握立裁基本技能之后,学习较复杂款式服装的立裁方法与技能。课程主要内容包括垂褶衣身、纱笼裙、斜裁连衣裙以及包含装袖/半连袖/领型/口袋等在内的茄克(大衣)款式的变化设计与立裁。学生还将学习如何将立裁和平面技巧相结合,并创造性地运用这些技能。课程要求学生具备较强的缝纫技巧。



授课目标

1. Politic-Ideological Objectives  思政目标

Course Objective 1:  Strengthen students' ideals and beliefs, stimulate their patriotic feelings, enhance social responsibility.

Course Objective 2:  Enable students to have high moral and professional ethics, cultivate students with the spirit of craftsmanship, unity and cooperation.

Course Objective 3: Improve students' aesthetic and humanistic qualities, consciously inherit and carry forward the excellent traditional Chinese culture, and enhance cultural confidence.

2. Knowledge Objectives  知识目标

Course Objective 4: Master the theory of advanced draping skills, methods and techniques.

Course Objective5: Understand the application of draping skills in clothing and the relationship between draping and feature of body shape;

3. Capability Objectives  能力目标

Course Objective 6: Master the draping techniques and methods to manipulate the muslin according to the style.

Course Objective 7: Grasp the key techniques of different styles of garments.

Course Objective 8: Develop the patterns from muslin pieces of draping to patterns, and make the samples, finish the forms of Cutter Must.

4. Quality Objectives 素质目标

Course Objective 9: Obtain the essence of draping techniques and develop the patterns for garments industry production.

Course Objective 10: Train the students with professional knowledge and make the students have the ability to adapt to the different situation in the future. 

成绩 要求

在课程评价考核上采用线上和线下融合、过程性评价与终结性评价相结合的多元化课程评价机制。课程总分100分,线上评价占30分,线下共计70分;平时成绩占60分、期末成绩40分,各部分内容占比如下表所示。

  线上评价包括观看视频、参与讨论、单元测试、单元作业、期末考试;线下评价包括单元实践作业、课堂讨论与测试、课程综合设计实践作业。

评价指标

描述

评价权重

线上

学习

观看视频

视频观看时长/视频总时长*单项满分

5%

 

 

 

30%

参与讨论

有效参与讨论数/10*单项满分

5%

单元测验

单元测验总得分/单元测验总分*单项满分

5%

单元作业

单元作业总得分/单元作业总分*单项满分

5%

期末考试

期末考试总得分/期末考试总分*单项满分

10%

线下

学习

 

单元作业

单元作业总得分/单元作业总分*单项满分

35%

 

 

70%

课堂讨论、测试

慕课堂讨论、测试总得分

5%

大作业

大作业得分*单项满分

30%


课程大纲
Cowl bodice & Sarong skirt / 垂褶衣身&纱笼裙
课时目标:1.Students learn to design and drape cowl bodice and sarong skirt.2.Through the unity of knowledge and action, teachers inspire thinking, through draping assignments comments, excellent works demonstration, guide students to pay attention to operational norms and working attitude, cultivate observation ability, improve the aesthetic level, cultivate excellence, good at thinking of the spirit of the wise craftsman.
1.1 Neckline cowl bodice
1.2 Sarong skirt
1.3 Armhole facing design
Bias cut Dress / 斜裁连衣裙
课时目标:1.Students learn to design and drape twist bodice and bias slim skirt.2.Understand the effect of fabric properties on shape of bias cut garment.
2.1 Bias and twist top
2.2 Bias cut skirt
2.3 Armhole facing design
Baisc Fitted Jacket with one-piece fitted sleeve / 合体茄克衣身及茄克袖
课时目标:1.Students learn to design and drape fitted jacket.2.Learn to convert straight dress sleeve to fitted jacket sleeve.
3.1 Basic fitted torso
3.2 One-piece fitted torso sleeve
3.3 Converting torso sloper to suit sloper
3.4 Converting torso sleeve to suit sleeve sloper
Side panel jacket _ body and notch collar
课时目标:1. Learn to drape side panel jacket.2. Learn to drape notched collar.
4.1 Jacket body
4.2 Notch collar and lapel
4.3 Vent, pocket, buttons and buttonholes
Side panel jacket _ sleeve and inner structure / 三开身西装_衣袖与内部结构
课时目标:1. Learn to use the one piece jacket sleeve to make the two-piece sleeve 2. Learn to fit the sleeve and body armhole.3.Learn to develop the whole patterns of the Jacket. 4.Learn to fit and correct the patterns;.
5.1 Two piece sleeve
5.2 Under collar and Lapel facing
5.3 Facing, lining and interfacing
5.4 Cutters must
Raglan Sleeve Coat / 插肩袖大衣
课时目标:1. Learn to drape tent coat.2. Learn to convert jacket sleeve to coat sleeve3. Learn to drape raglan sleeve.
6.1 Raglan sleeve coat variations
6.2 Tent coat body
6.3.1 Coat sleeve
6.3.2 Raglan sleeve
6.4 Convertible collar
6.5 Under collar, facing, pocket, belt, buttons and buttonholes
Kimono Jacket with shawl collar / 青果领公主连袖茄克
课时目标:1.Learn how to drape the princess kimono jacket.2. Learn how to drape the shawl collar.3. Learn how to sew the princess kimono jacket.
7.1.1 Prepare dress form and muslin
7.1.2 Drape side panel
7.1.3 Drape back panel
7.1.4 Drape front panel
7.2 Shawl collar with fish eye dart
7.3 Princess kimono sleeve
7.4 Top collar, facing, closure and inseam pocket
08 Final Project / 课程作业
课时目标:1. Have a comprehensive understanding of the knowledge learned in this course ; 2. Inspire students to have an integrated application in an appointed case;3. Through the unity of knowledge and action, teachers inspire thinking, through draping assignments comments, excellent works demonstration, guide students to pay attention to operational norms and working attitude, cultivate observation ability, improve the aesthetic level, cultivate excellence, good at thinking of the spirit of the wise craftsman.
8.1 Assign a sketch to interpret and execute
8.2 Walk the students through the analysis of the style
8.3 Drape and sew the garment as a final exercise
展开全部
预备知识

(1)Foundation of draping 服装立体造型设计1 

  • Understanding the basic principle of draping

  • Keeping in mind the importance of grain, balance and structure in garment

  • Understanding fundamental draping procedures aand their application to current trends 

(2)Sewing Techniques for Women's wear 女装工艺

  • Sewing techniques including cutting, construction, and finishing

  • Using industrial equipment to create jacket with lining and interfacing


参考资料

1. Recommended Textbook

[1] Hilde Jaffe, Nurie Relis:《Draping for Fashion Design》(5th Edition),Prentice Hall2011.

[2]吴巧英、郭建南主编:《服装立体裁剪》(第一版),高等教育出版社,2015年出版。

2. Reference Book 

[1] Connie Amaden-Crawford:《The Art of Fashion Draping4th Edition),Prentice Hall2012.

[2] Karolyn Kiisel:《Draping: the Complete Course1st Edition),Laurence King Publishing2013.

[3]陈红霞:《美国立体裁剪与打板实例(第一版),化学工业出版社2017年出版。

3. Internet Resource

[1] https://www.icourse163.org/course/ZSTU-1205717806?tid=1460621442

[2] https://next-studio.xuetangx.com/pro/editcoursemanage/dashboard/3346

[3]https://www.xuetangx.com/course/zstu13051000937intl/5516285

[4]https://www.xuetangx.com/course/zstu13051003785intl/5929629

常见问题

Q :  Which fabric should we prepare to drape the soft garment? How many meters do we need to prepare?

A :  Soft and lightweight fabrics like chiffon, satin are recommeded. Lightweight but not too light to be sheer.  For project 1,  prepare 1.5 meter wide fabric; prepare 2.5 meter wide fabric for project 2.

You can use same or different fabric for two projects.


Q :  What should we prepare for jacket projects?

A :  Preparation of materials for jackets

(1)two pairs of shoulder pad, one general shoulder pad, one raglan sleeve shoulder pad

(2)One meter of fusible interlining, (nonwoven fusible interlining is not allowed)

(3)5 meteres heavyweight firmly woven muslin for draping jackets and coats

(4)Several pieces of white thin pattern paper

(5)Basic straight sleeve used in draping 1 course

浙江理工大学
3 位授课老师
吴巧英

吴巧英

教授

屠晔

屠晔

副教授

富涵

富涵

实验师

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